Afro Fashion Week Milano

Dolls of Ms. Francis

Dry/Wet 2025 Collection from Maxivive

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DOLLS OF MS. FRANCIS, the Dry/Wet 2025 collection of Maxivive, is a poignant tribute to the trans body, celebrating its fluidity, diversity, and resilience in the face of societal erasure. In a country like designer Papa Oyeyemi’s native Nigeria, where the humanity of transgender individuals is often denied, this collection emerges as a powerful statement, unfolding in two distinct acts, each narrating a story of survival and transformation.

The first act honors trans men, a community often marginalized and unseen. Maxivive pulls them into the light, using fashion as a medium to ignite dialogue and advocacy, demanding visibility and respect for those long ignored.

The second act pays homage to trans women, focusing on the legacy of Fola Francis, a trans woman and activist who passed away last December. Ms. Francis, a trailblazer, founded the organization Doll Activities to support trans women in Nigeria. Though her life was tragically cut short, her spirit continues to resonate through the lives she touched and in the garments that now carry forward her legacy.

The collection draws on the concept of the plasticity of the human body – a metaphor for transformation and self-expression. Just as the trans body can be molded to reflect true identity, the materials in this collection – deadstock fabrics like denim, camo prints, polyester, calf leather, cowhide, lace and velvet – are chosen for their adaptability and capacity for reinvention. Designer Papa Oyeyemi merges sustainability with artistic vision, using these once-overlooked materials to craft garments that are both functional and symbolic.

The diverse fabrics echo the multifaceted nature of human identity, while the signature stitch embroideries and trimmings tie together these elements, creating a collection that honors the trans community and challenges the fashion industry to rethink its approach to design and materials. Through this collection, Maxivive underscores that just as the human body is a canvas for identity, so too can fabric be a canvas for expression, transformation, and sustainability.

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